![]() ![]() If you don't mind the look of a blank cover on your wall, do as suggested before me. Doing it this way eliminates adding unsightly junction boxes, but is definitely the harder option. The better option would be, turn off the circuit, get some 12/2 romex cable and firmly tape it to each of the existing cables and use the old cables as sort of a pull string to get the new cable to the existing locations, then junction where the original cables were junctioned. I'm putting this up as an answer, mostly because there wasn't enough space in the comments.As far as I know, there is no approved method of splicing class I wiring inside of a wall, aside from that, it is both dangerous and begging for failure.Īs posted above, you can use junction boxes (he or she suggested using what is called a "nail on" or "new work" box, if the wall is no longer opened up to access the wall studs, use a "old work" or "cut in" box, this is a type of junction box that as little tabs connected to screws that when turned, flange out the tabs, mounting the box.) If I'm completely misunderstanding, please point it out, so that I and others might learn. (Model # CPGI-1116377-2.) They say the following: The big box stores in the US sell something called the Tyco Electronics Romex splice kit. Tyco Electronic's Non-metallic splice and tap kits provide a fast and reliable method for splicing or tapping 2 wire w/ ground and splicing 3 wire w/ground non-metallic cables up to 300 volts. They are designed and approved for use in rework within existing structures. NEC approved Article 334-40b.įor Use On 12 or 14 AWG (300 Volt) 2 wire NM cable with ground Splice and Tap Kits also eliminate wire nuts for installation and replace the conventional method for adding a splice or tap for non-metallic cable without the need for exposed and unsightly junction boxes. NEC 334.40(B) Devices of Insulating Material. Switch, outlet, and tap devices of insulating material shall be permitted to be used without boxes in exposed cable wiring and for rewiring in existing buildings where the cable is concealed and fished. Openings in such devices shall form a close fit around the outer covering of the cable, and the device shall fully enclose the part of the cable from which any part of the covering has been removed. Where connections to conductors are by binding-screw terminals, there shall be available as many terminals as conductors. I think it's generally sensible to use junction boxes, but it seems like this product would be technically permissible. ((edit, following comments.)) It turns out that the wording of the NEC is subtle and specific for a reason. It talks about ".concealed and fished.", which pointed out means that the wire can't be stapled in place (ie, it has to have been fished in). So, I'd have to imagine that an AHJ would legitimately fail this particular application because the wires would be stapled below the junction box and any holes in the framing may not let the join pass through.RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Tech Issues: Splicing 120v (Romex) Wire - FYI Open Roads Forum This would seem reasonable, as a stapled wire couldn't be pulled back out for inspection/repair/whatever. There is now available a connector which allows you to splice into an existing 12 or 14 gauge Romex cable without cutting the insulation or the wire. It is NEC approved and it eliminates the need for a junction box. The connectors made by AMP and can be found in the electrical department at Ace Hardware and no doubt, other stores as well. Any info on what tools you heed to put it on? They should solve a lot of problems in RV electrical work. JohnI don't recall any tools being mentioned on the outside of the package. If it works like the 12v connectors, a pair of pliers should do it. The NEC does not approve anything and I saw no reference to UL which has the approval authority, bee careful. The 12VDC in-line wire taps are junk, they cause ever so many problems.(ever had electric brake problems?) Under high current draw they have high resistance in the tiny contact area. ![]() I would expect those you speak of to be the same. No thanks, I'll continue to make wire splices the tried and true method - per my state's electrical code. These sound great since they are good up to 20 AMP when one needs another receptacle like we could use in the electrical bin. ![]()
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